Kirgistan, Tadjikistan 22.08 bis 02.09.2013

Nach dem Nachtflug über Istanbul kam ich um ca 9:00 Uhr in Bishkek an. Sergei erwartet mich schon um mit mir zur Tadjikischen Botschaft, die schon freitags um 11 Uhr schließt, zu fahren. Leider hatte er und ich sämtliche Dokumente vergessen. Also nochmal schnell zu Ihm nach hause und ausdrucken. Leider wollte der Mac und der Windowsdrucker nicht so richtig. Am Ende waren wir dann doch 15 Minuten vor 11 Uhr im Konsulat und 10 Minuten später hatte ich mein tadjikisches Visum samt GBAO Permit. Danach stand etwas Sightseeing auf dem Programm

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Manas

Das historische Museum, früher Lenin Museum:
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Wachwechsel an der riesigen kirgisischen Fahne
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Parlamentsgebäude

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Leninstatue

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
American University of Central Asia, das Gebäude diente früher als Hauptquartier der Kommunistischen Partei

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Marx und Engels auf der Parkbank

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ewige Flamme


Größere Kartenansicht

Am nächsten Tag ging es mit dem Flieger nach Osch.
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Ausblick vom Suleiman-Too, dem heiligen Berg der Kirgiesen
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Wer hier seinen Arm rein steckt, dem vergehen alle Leiden (oder er wird von einer Schlange gebissen).

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Hier runterrutschen vertreibt die Leiden im gerutschten Körperteil.

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Osch von oben

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Hier wird Lavash gebacken

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Der Markt von Osch:
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Die allgegenwärtige Lenin Statue

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Das Fußballstadium, an dem Geländer hält man sich üblicherweise fest, wenn man 2..3 Bier zu viel hatte.

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Yak-40 Flugzeug, aus Sowjetzeiten

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Abends gab es Essen bei einer lokalen usbekischen Familie


Größere Kartenansicht

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Die weltweit einzige Jurte mit drei Stockwerken

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Zombiefuchs

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Kinderspielzeug

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der Suleiman Berg von unten aus gesehen

central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
traditionelle kirgisische Hüte, die laut Sergei auch in der Sauna getragen werden

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Besuch im Mueseum von Osch

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Weiterfahrt nach Sary-Tash im Alay Tal

Zwischenstop an einer rasstätte zum Zwecke des Genusses von Kumis
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Impressionen aus dem Tian Shan Gebirge:
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Kyzyl-Art-Pass

Sary-Tash, unsere Unterkunft für die Nacht, das erste mal ohne Dusche und nur mit Loch im Garten als Toilette
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Pik Lenin zeigt sich das erste mal

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Pik Lenin am morgen


Größere Kartenansicht

Am nächsten Tag geht es weiter nach Murghab
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Die Grenze nach Tadjikistan, ca. 50km zwischen den Grenzposten:
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Tadjikistan:
An der Grenze haben wir drei Bulgaren aufgegabelt, die wir kurzerhand bis nach Murghab mitnahmen.
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Welcome to Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province

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Hinter dem Zaun liegt China

Karakul See: (Meteoritenkrater mit einem Durchmesser von 52km, der See hat keinen Abfluss)
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Salzwasser, es gibt aber eine Art Fisch im See

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ein einsames Yak

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Ak-Baital Pass (4655m):
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ein Fahrradfahrer aus Rumänien

Murghab:
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Markt

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lokale Bar


Größere Kartenansicht

Die heutige Etappe sollte uns in Wakhan Tal bis nach Langar führen
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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
nachdem die Bulgaren unsere Wodka Vorräte geplündert haben, machen sie sich am nächsten Morgen auf die zweitägige Reise nach Bishkek

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Questhouse :)

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Auto ist erst mal kaputt, konnte jedoch wieder repariert werden

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Markt von Murghab

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Polizeiauto

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Schnaps net!

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Checkpoint, die Behörden übertragen alle Details aus unseren Reisepässen in ein altes Buch, die Prozedur dauert ca. 30 Minuten

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Sasyk-Kel See
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Ab jetzt geht folgt unsere Route nicht mehr dem Pamir Highway, sondern geht Richtung Wakhan Tal:
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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
tadjikischer Grenzpfeiler

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afghanischer Grenzpfeiler

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eine Brücke auf afghanischer Seite

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der Fluss markiert die Grenze zwischen Tadjikistan und Afghanistan

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In Langar angekommen, gehen wir noch eine kleine Runde druch das Dorf zum Einkaufen
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der örtliche Supermarkt

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Größere Kartenansicht

Innenansicht eines typischen Hauses einer Familie aus dem Pamir:
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Langar Petroglyphs (8000 BC):
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Aufstieg zur Stupa von Vrang:
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pamirsky shapka

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mein Adoptivkind (für einen Tag)

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Yamchun Fortress:
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Die Quellen von Bibi Fatima:
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und zum Abschluss des Tages ein Besuch im lokalen Pub:
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Größere Kartenansicht

Heute geht die Fahrt über Iskashim bis nach Khorogh
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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
die beiden rüstigen Renter (79 und 75 Jahre alt) waren zu Fuss unterwegs

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deutsche Aufbauhilfe

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Polnisches / Holländisches 4×4 Reisemobil mit Küche, Bad und Wohnzimmer

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Blick über Afghanistan

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Ishkashim, Stop für ein Bierchen:
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Awtomat Kalaschnikowa

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der Grenzübergang nach Afghanistan (leider wegen Cholera geschlossen, zu der Zeit wie alle Grenzübergänge von Tadjikistan nach Afghanistan):
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Heisse Quellen von Garmchashma, rein durften wir leider nicht:
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Auch in Khorugh gibt es ein Lenin Denkmal

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Fanta aus Kabul


central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Die Miezi im lokalen Guesthouse klettert auf Slava rum


Größere Kartenansicht

Den folgenden Tag haben wir einmal nicht mit herumfahren verbracht, sondern haben uns Khorugh angeschaut
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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
eine vertrauenerweckende Konstruktion im Bad

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Fussballstadium

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Der Markt von Khorugh:
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Das Mueseum:
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wieder gab es haufenweise Zombie Tiere zu sehen…
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Marco Polo Schaafe

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
leider stand dieses schicke Handtuch nicht zum Verkauf

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Besuch im Botanischen Garten:
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die Datscha des Presidenten

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central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
einfache Form des Lichtschalters


Größere Kartenansicht

Heute ging der Weg bis nach Kalaikhum, ca 250km, 10h Fahrt.
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Besuch in einer Filzteppichmanufaktur:
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Pinkelpause

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gutes Chinabier zum Mittag

Auf dem Felsen geht ein afghanischer Eselweg entlang:
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Die Strassenverhältnisse werden nach dem Schild kein Bisschen schlechter…

central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
Überbleibsel aus dem Bürgerkrieg

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Afghanistan:
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Guesthouse in Kalaikhum:
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Größere Kartenansicht

Die letzte Etappe führte bis nach Dushanbe, der Hauptstadt
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Ups, Reifen hat einen Riss, hat aber noch bis Dushanbe gehalten.

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Rafting wäre hier sicherlich eine Heruasforderung, leider gehört der Fluss zur Hälfte zu Afghanistan.

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Brücke nach Afghanistan

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Flussdurchfahrt für LKW

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Und hier die „Brücke“ für PKW

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Nurek Staudamm und See:
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Größere Kartenansicht

Auf dem Rückweg hatte ich noch 7 Aufenthalt in Istanbul, die ich genutzt habe mir die Hagia Sophia anzuschauen:
central asia, kyrgistan, tajikistan
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Größere Kartenansicht

 

Eigentlich hatte ich vor, den afghanischen Teil des Wakhan Tals zu bereisen. Leider waren die Grenzen nach Afghanistan geschlossen. Anfang Mai war unser Guide mit einem Pärchen aus Australien in Afghanistan, freundlicher Weise hat mir Slava ein paar seiner Bilder zur Verfügung gestellt:
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